[ 上海 ] 2021-10-09 编辑:金智慧

“This season we explored the ideas of strength and fragility. We thought about dance - an appreciation of the power and athleticism, the graceful movement and fluidity of a dancer on the stage. It was also an opportunity to look to nature and all its beauty and resilience. These influences shaped the way we approached each element of the collection; we tried to create a feeling of balance in each look.”
Creative Director, Nicky Zimmermann.

“本季我们将探索力量与脆弱感。我们想到了舞蹈——崇尚舞者在台上的力量与运动、优雅与协调的同时,也是观察 天然的美丽与韧性的机会。对该系列每个元素的处理在这些影响下成形,此外我们还试图在每个造型中创造一种平衡感。” ——创意总监Nicky Zimmermann。

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Spring 22 explores the many facets of The Dancer. The collection is a pas de deux of binary concepts – strength and fragility, movement and struc- ture, dark and lightness, self-discipline and creative intuition.

Spring22 探索了舞者的不同面。本系列是一支诠释对立概念的双人舞——力量与脆弱、动感与结构、黑暗与光明、自律与创造。

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Ballet is a central theme inspiring bodysuits and floor sweeping chiffon skirts worn with wrap cashmere tops, and heels with ankle-tied ribbons. Gathered miniskirts in graffiti prints, cargo jumpsuits and silver sweatpants channel the ease and freedom of dancers off duty or in-between rehearsal.

灵感核心源于芭蕾舞,带来了包括紧身衣、丝带高跟鞋、拖地雪纺裙搭配羊绒裹身上衣的设计。涂鸦印花迷你裙、工 装连体裤和银色运动裤展现了舞者休闲时光或排练间隙的轻松自在。

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Contrastingly, there is a black-tie influence that elevates the looks to a sense of occasion, with tuxedo shirts and tailored dinner jackets with belted waists bringing a sharpness to floating gowns and tumbles of tulle. An incredibly intricate embroidery technique combining individual pieces of curved lace and laser cut pieces create a feather impression recalling the magic of swan-lake; the story’s darker undertone seeping through in statement black. Feathers are also cast in rose-gold and featured in accessories such as chokers and clutch purses.

黑色领带与之相对,使整体造型更具正式感,燕尾服衬衫和精心剪裁的束腰晚礼服为飘逸翻滚的纱裙增添一丝锐利。 繁复精妙的刺绣结合蕾丝与亮片打造出羽毛感,令人回忆起天鹅湖的魔法,而这个故事黑暗的基调也在慢慢渗透。玫 瑰金羽毛也出现在颈链和手包等配饰中。

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Zimmermann’s love of lingerie detailing such as intricate body panelling and corsetry is incredibly feminine and exudes a strength and precision. Racer lines emphasised by exaggerated frills, and sporty sleeveless bodices celebrate athleticism. Texture adds the mesmerising details that make each piece special, from laser cut and engineered petals, gathered tulle bodices, perforated layers of frill and pearl beading. Zimmermann热衷于对内衣细节进行极具女性色彩的处理,如做工复杂的紧身衣和胸衣,在散发女性力量的同时有着精 妙的曲线。夸张褶边强调工装感,运动无袖紧身衣突显竞技精神。亮片、花瓣、薄纱紧身胸衣、褶边装饰和珍珠串, 多种结构为细节增添迷人之处,使每件单品都与众不同。

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Print is always an important component of Zimmermann’s creative process, and this season is no exception. Working in the studio with collabora- tors photographer Pierre Toussaint and florist Saskia Havekes, Zimmermann photographed and manipulated the resulting images of several floral arrangements to imagine a new approach to florals with depth and hyper-realness. A running paint print drips down silk organza, complimenting the season’s palette of melodic oyster, vanilla, and dusty chocolate hues, while author Sophie Lee’s poetic words express the sentiment of the season in the graffiti print.

印花始终是 Zimmermann 创作的重点,这一季同样如此。通过与摄影师 Pierre Toussaint 和花艺师 Saskia Havekes 的合 作,Zimmermann 拍摄处理了一系列花艺组合,刻画出兼具景深和超真实感的新花卉印花。 油彩滴落于丝质欧根纱 上,与牡蛎色、香草色和巧克力色相得益彰,与此同时Sophie Lee富有诗意的文字被印在涂鸦上表达了本季的主旋律。

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The collection ebbs and flows through soft and simple, elegant silhouettes to exaggerated drama with waves of fabric anchored with tough boots, The Dancer recalls the emotional crescendo of a moving performance.

该系列随着轻柔、简约、优雅的轮廓,到层叠面料搭配轻盈靴子的夸张戏剧感一同起起伏伏,The DanceR带领观众投 身于一场动人演出的情感浪潮。

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