Dries Van Noten 2021秋冬女装系列

[ 上海 ] 2021-03-05 编辑:金智慧

唤醒内心的热情。

在纯净与热烈中舞动,中和男性色彩与女性色彩,打破性别隔阂。

捕捉动态时刻里面的那些放纵、热情、姿态、克制、行动、静止与内在的思考。

找寻动态中的情绪,如鼓点般敲打心灵,现实主义迷幻舞曲与巴洛克艺术风格,带来舞台与街景的结合。

人类情绪的全音阶,从幸福、困惑、逻辑思维到极度愉悦。那些浓重色彩的、戏剧性的、夸张的、谨慎的、羞怯的,共同前进。

曾经那些异域的陌生和对抗的因素变得舒适与熟悉。

黑色牧师服的严肃与生动野性的迷恋。

时装上结构化的线条纹路,带有流畅线条和节制的手法,运用男士服装的剪裁技巧,融合女士服装的立体褶皱与巧思。

美丽姿态从温柔到热烈。

收敛、严肃的剪裁风格,融合绒毛的、光泽的、怪诞的丰富与迷人。

平衡时装中的“高”和“低”——高级定制的手工技巧被应用到基础款时装中。

嵌杂色纹路的面料上展现线条印花,玫瑰色调如琴弦音符般绽放,手套单品被描绘和印制,美化为时装的一部分。

从女性美视角出发,融合Pedro Almodóvar作品下热情的、夸张的女性,和Pina Bausch作品中优雅的、颠覆性的力量女性。

极简化的修饰手法与热情的姿态和情绪形成对比。

对于本质需求和Dries Van Noten设计根基的回归。白色衬衫长裙重新演绎的灵感,来源于Dries Van Noten先生1981年时,以时装学徒身份创作的第一个系列。

克莱因蓝、阿尔莫多瓦红、昆斯粉、博伊斯灰。

系列呈现视角

该系列通过两种方式进行视觉呈现:

造型化的摄影描绘出Dries Van Noten先生眼中的惯性时装表达。

Casper Sejersen的影片和照片,从动态中捕捉所有造型。

款式

对姿态的强化呈现形式。通过开衩设计重新展现轮廓。休闲的、延长款的衬衫裙,以束带、包裹和结构化展现;宽松的剪裁,流畅的斜裁,高级手工,运动休闲,棉绒,褶皱,华丽的细节重新定义材质形式,吊带式上衣,肩线,方正的大衣,纸袋裤,长裙。

色彩

裸色,血红色,玫瑰色,海军蓝,深红色,蓝色,黑色,深灰色,柠檬黄,巧克力色,薰衣草色,丁香紫色。中性色。薄荷色。酸性色调。粉色,淡绿色,苹果色,紫色,卡其色,桃红色,蓝色,靛蓝色,水洗丹宁,波尔多色,哑光与闪色。黑暗、光线与彩虹。

印花与装饰

视觉化呈现。嵌杂色纹路面料,玫瑰,毛绒。大衣、手套等材质上饰以印花来重塑形式。

艳红的嘴唇与玫瑰、珍珠、亮片、鹳毛,标志性的魅力画像。灵感来源于二十世纪五十年代的花卉印花。在材质中嵌以金属丝、鹳毛和亮片。施华洛世奇水晶。华丽的细节与生动的乔其纱一起重新定义时装轮廓。

面料

来自男装款式的羊毛材质,极致流畅的女装材质。来自绉绸的丝质到丝硬缎和提花布,透纱,绒毛,羊毛,粗花呢,提花织物,缎面,亮片,运动衫材质,男装化的剪裁,以安哥拉山羊毛的环保皮草呈现不同手感。

配饰

鞋靴采用有延展力的材质,新款10厘米鞋靴,在手袋、手套、高跟鞋、运动鞋上饰以玫瑰印花。在耳环、戒指等单品上采用金属环设计。

影片

由Caspar Sejersen拍摄和制作。于2021年2月8日至11日,在安特卫普“The Red Room”剧院拍摄。召集47位表演者,包括来自世界知名比利时现代舞团Rosas 和Ultima Vez的演员们,巴黎国家歌剧院的新成员。大部分的参与者为女性舞蹈演员,小部分为模特和男性舞蹈演员(编舞为Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui)。

为期三天的影片拍摄过程中,我们遵守了相应的疫情防控要求。舞蹈演员成为模特,模特成为舞蹈演员,他们开心的参与了这一次拍摄,共同演绎和呈现了一场另类时装秀。

补充信息

THE DANCERS & MODELS (In alphabetical order):

Amar Akway - Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker (Choreographer at ROSAS) - Anne- Catherine Lacroix - Aymeline Valade - Borna Babic’ (Ultima Vez) – Cyrielle Lalande - Emiel Vandenberghe (Independent dancer) - Evelyn Nagy – Fabiana Ricardo - Frank Gizycki (Rosas) - Gala Moody (Independent dancer) – Iekeliene Stange - Inge Geurts - Jacob Storer (Rosas) - Jean Lemersre – Jonas Vandekerckhove (Independent dancer) - Kayako Higuchi - Kayoko Minami (Independent Dancer) - Kiran Gezels (Opera Ballet Vlaanderen) – Klara Boscic - Laura Maria Poletti (Rosas) - Leonie De Ripainsel (Independent dancer) - Letizia Galloni (Opéra National de Paris) - Lynn Palm – Maggie Cheng - MariaCarla Boscono - Marie- Agnès Gillot (Opéra National de Paris) - Maryel Uchida - Maty Fall - Maxime Boël (ArtEZ) - Misako Kato (Opera Ballet Vlaanderen) - Mohamed Toukabri (Independent dancer) - Morgan Lugo (Independent dancer) - Nicole Atieno - Nyarach Ayuel - Pol Van den Broek (Independent dancer) - Rachel Marx - Rob Hayden (Ultima Vez) - Sade Van Der Hoeven - Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui (Choreographer EASTMAN) - Steffi Soede – Suzi de Givenchy - Suzie Bird - Tchi-Ann Liu (The Profiles) - Wim Vandekeybus (Choreographer Ultima Vez) - Yuika Hashimoto (Rosas) - Zanna Cornelis (Independent Dancer) - Zso Varju.

CASPER SEJERSEN

The Danish fashion, beauty and still life photographer Casper Sejersen is perhaps best known for his ‘orgasm portraits’ of the Nymphomaniac (2013) cast. His work on Lars Von Trier’s infamous film also included the book 'Belongs to Joe' (published by MACK) – a collection of photographic essays in collaboration with art historian Cecilie Høgsbro. Casper subsequently shot Nymphomaniac’s Charlotte Gainsbourg for Self Service magazine. Casper made his directorial debut in directing an episode of the Danish television programme The Legacy. His first solo exhibition in London, 'One, Two, Three, Four' was at Cob Gallery in Spring 2019 and he also exhibited with Cob at Photo London 2019.

ROSAS – ANNE TERESA DE KEERSMAEKER

Rosas is the company of the choreographer and dancer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker. It was founded in 1983 during the creation of the piece Rosas danst Rosas. Since her debut in 1982 with Fase, Four Movements to the Music of Steve Reich, De Keersmaeker has been engaged in a rigorous exploration and articulation of movement, from its simplest forms to its most complex. The relationship between movement and music is essential to De Keersmaeker’s concept of dance. Rosas has expanded the art of dance as an act of writing movements in space and time and has over the years explored choreography in partnership with other compositional forces, namely music, geometry, the visual arts, and language. De Keersmaeker’s engagement of these disciplines has involved collaborations with experts— musicians, composers, visual artists, actors, writers—who have at different times been integral participants and performers in Rosas productions. Rosas has collaborated with Dries Van Noten to create the costumes for her oeuvres Drumming (1998) and Rain (2001).

ULTIMA VEZ - WIM VANDERKEYBUS

Wim Vandekeybus was born in Herenthout, Belgium. His works are characterized by intensive bursts of film, photos, video, live music and text in combination with theatrical acrobatic dance. Themes of danger, imminent catastrophe, risk and precise movement appear throughout his dance compositions. In his youth, Vandekeybus took dance, film and photography classes. His talent showed immediately, and the prolific Belgian choreographer Jan Fabre took him on. Vandekeybus toured the world for two years with Fabre's production The Power of Theatrical Madness (1984). He then struck off on his own, forming the company Ultima Vez. He produced ‘What the Body Does not Remember’ for the company in 1987. This very first work not only became an international breakthrough but also won Vandekeybus a Bessie Award (officially the New York Dance and Performance Awards). In 1989, he won a second Bessie for Les porteuses de mauvaises nouvelles (1989). From 1993 until 1999, Vandekeybus was artist-in-residence at the Royal Flemish Theatre. He created 16 works with Ultima Vez, including Blush (2002) and Sonic Boom (2005).

OPERA-BALLET VLAANDEREN / EASTMAN –

SIDI LARBI CHERKAOUI

Belgian-Moroccan dancer and choreographer and director. He has made over 50 choreographic pieces and received two Laurence Olivier Award for Best New Dance Production, three Ballet Tanz awards for best choreographer (2008, 2011, 2017) and the KAIROS Prize (2009). Since 2015, Cherkaoui is the artistic director at the Royal Ballet of Flanders and recipient of two Lawrence Olivier awards. Cherkaoui is an associate artist at Sadler's Wells, London. Cherkaoui debuted as a choreographer in 1999 with Andrew Wale in the contemporary musical Anonymous Society. He has also collaborated with abundance of theatres, opera houses and ballet companies, like Geneva Ballet, Royal Danish Ballet, Cedar Lake Contemporary Ballet in New York. From 2004–2009 Cherkaoui was the associate artist at the Toneelhuis theater in Antwerp. In 2009, he won the KAIROS Prize. He founded his own in own company in January 2010 called Eastman in Antwerp, resident at deSingel International Arts Campus.

MASSIVE ATTACK – ANGEL

"Angel" is a song by English trip hop group Massive Attack, featuring the vocals and song writing from Horace Andy, and is partially based on Andy's song "You Are My Angel". It was released as the third single from their third studio album, Mezzanine (1998), on 13 July 1998.[1]. Massive attack has granted Dries Van Noten the exclusive rights to use Angel for this film.