女装系列 2022 秋冬

她踏着轻盈步伐，身着透明肤感针织衫前行。她腰间 令人沉迷。她将日复一日的追逐，芭蕾裙领陶瓷蓝色 链条隐隐作响:是铃铛吗?或许是吧，言语无法 连体衣轻裹空灵身影。她流连街角，仿若囿于时间的

尽意表达。她踱步而来，画面渐渐浮现眼前——如古老 技艺与未来时光的重合:展现一种全新的马术风格。
矛盾吗?不，这是必然。

但她拒绝标签。即使标签可以带来慰藉，那又怎样? 这个下午，她更愿意倚赖自我蜕变，自我成就。她低吟 浅唱，运用全能悖论，以尖锐的戏谑之语捕捉激情，抛出 质疑，拒绝千篇一律的规则。此般歌声使她欢悦;恰如 其分的不确定性之美无疑会激发她的灵感。犀利问题 回响耳畔:明天将走向何方?她细意斟酌。 她思索这一难解谜语，手抚提花大衣拉链。法语中，

“拉带”即为“dragonne ”(龙狮)。 
她微笑着忆起内心的力量。
她将寻遇前所未见之物。她探索着，化身龙狮， 炼金师，抑或亚马逊女战士。她大胆走上街头，召唤 幽影，揭晓奇迹，挖掘奥秘。宝藏无所不在，但在何处? 她目光如炬，心情愉悦，身着宽松苔藓蓝羊皮双面大衣， 步履轻盈——强大力量呼应内心激情。她步调悠然， 意欲觅求隐秘之物。于是，她唤起天马行空的奇思 妙想。它们或者特立独行，或者归属群体;永恒色彩

穿梭者。
她比任何时间都想要和渴望将它们全部寻回。她 究竟在想谁?她痴迷于20世纪50年代初期出没于巴黎 塞纳河左岸地下俱乐部的猫女。她们是一群无畏的女孩， 绰号“先遣者”，她们勇敢果决，无时无刻不在改写自由

与女性的定义。这些不羁的女孩往往艺术天赋极强， 与世俗期待背道而驰。其中一个比其他任何人走得都 要远。她画画、舞蹈、恋爱、求学，循规蹈矩;她已然

厌倦。如今的她摆脱世俗的枷锁，于午夜逃离，隐居于 阳光明媚的意大利小岛。 而今，她们回归，愈加无畏，值得众人欢迎与尊敬——首先 藉由姿态延续她们留于历史上的印记。她身着米白色 荷叶边衣领丝质紧身连衣裤，遵从自我规则行事。她 无需依于他人，这是件好事。今时今日她内心有了新的 疑问。她有一股给明天制造惊喜的冲动。

颠覆旧知往往意味着打破常规。它强烈暗示大胆精神。 它如智慧般奔涌不息:如腰带与手环上“金字塔”形的 铆钉，灵感正源自爱马仕的经典设计狗项圈(Collier23女装系列 2022 秋冬 de Chien)。这种微妙的演变吸引着她。

显而易见，灵感的涌动无可避免。但若要目睹其真谛， 必须先学会开拓眼界。这需要时间。 时光的流逝令人惋惜。而时光的启示直击内心。
我们或许正在见证奇迹，这是肯定的。

清晨，她身披罗登大衣，上面的条纹勾勒出一抹风景，一道 地平线。
她整日追寻着太阳的起航地。 
这是一幅线条与色彩色图画，然而却不止于此。

她今晨知道，两个同伴中的一个正在走向光明时，带着 会心的、性感的微笑。
规则晋级。她充满力量。
轻盈的步伐沿着一往无前的道路前进。

不耽于眼下。不留恋过往。

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WOMEN’S COLLECTION Fall-Winter 2022

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WOMEN’S COLLECTION

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With a light step, she moves forward enfolded in a second skin knitwear that is a play on transparency. The chain on her belt makes a faint sound: is that a bell? The words, perhaps, are somewhat lacking. Then, as she walks by, an image comes to mind — something like the marriage of ancestral techniques and a future that has yet to take place: Equestrian Techno.

A contradiction? A necessity, rather.

But she doesn’t like labels. They are com- forting, but so what? This afternoon, she would prefer to rely on the transformative, on self-fulfillment. She sings to herself a song that wields the all-powerful paradox to capture passion and doubt with mordant irony, the better to reject one-size-fits-all solutions. The very existence of such a song delighted her; the beauty of such righteous uncertainty would no doubt inspire her. And she would remember it when the time came to pose an exhilarating, overwhelming question: where will we be heading tomorrow?

Before answering this sphinxlike riddle, she runs her hands over the zipper of her jacquard coat. In French, as she well knows, the pull strap is called a dragonne.

She smiles, reminded of her inner power.

For she will begin by endeavoring to dis- cover that which has never before been heard. She will explore. In the guise of a dragonne, alchemist or Amazon. She will venture forth into the streets, summon apparitions, reveal marvels, unearth secrets. Treasures are everywhere to be found... but where? Where? Wide-eyed, happy, she will walk vaporously ensconced in a loose-fitting, lichen-blue sheepskin reversible coat — powerful, in synergy with her own intensity. She will walk, hoping to bring back secret beings from their hiding places. To do so, she will opt for magical thinking. Those that appear to her will either be deeply solitary or on the con- trary will belong to a community of bodies; a community swept away in an eternity of colors. She will track them down day by day,

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WOMEN’S COLLECTION

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increasingly ethereal, often sheathed in a ballet neck faience-blue jumpsuit. She will haunt the streets as one is haunted by time.

She wants — she has wished it — to bring them back intact, all of them, and more pro- vocative than ever. Who exactly is she think- ing of? She is obsessed with a handful of feline women who hung out in the cellars of the Paris Rive Gauche in the early 1950s. A gang of fearless girls whose nickname was the “voyelles,” who were indomitable, and who each night changed the very definition of freedom and femininity. These “voyelles” — these riotous girls — were very gifted in the art of doing the opposite of what the outside world expected of them. One in particular went further than anyone else. She painted, danced, loved, and experimented before deciding she had sufficiently displayed her person; she had had enough. It was now time to avoid the gaze of others. She left her gen- eration in the middle of the night to retire to a sunny Italian island.

Now that they had returned, more audacious than ever, it was of the essence to welcome and be worthy of them — first and foremost through gestures, by extending the mark they had left on history. Wearing an off-white silk leotard with a jabot collar, she would now play by her own rules. She had no need for anyone else’s, which was a good thing. Today she would ask an additional question. She had an urge to make tomorrow surprising.

Inventing a new subversion always means going against the grain. It hints, very strongly, at the boldness of the spirit. It is like wit, like flow: like the belts and bracelets the designs of which were based on chockers with

“Pyramid” studs that the Maison Hermès was already designing, the Collier de Chien. This nuanced evolution appealed to her.

There was something inevitable about this flow: that was plain to see. But to see one must learn to open one’s eyes. And this takes time.

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WOMEN’S COLLECTION

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Time lost! one might lament. Unless it is the kind of time that revelation extends.

We might well be in the midst of a miracle. Of affirmation.

This morning the loden coat she wears has stripes that shape a landscape, a horizon.

Indeed, all day she has looked out for it: the sun’s point of departure.

It is a picture of lines and colors. And, already, more than that.

For her aim this morning is the knowing, sexy smiles of two companions aware that one of them is heading into the light.

The rules just got kicked up a notch. She feels powerful today.

Her willowy stride follows a path that could never be undone.

Not today. Not ever.